• Medium-duty mechanical locks with full size lever handles.
• Code Free Access mode by pressing the ‘Y’ code free button after entering the code (CL415 and CL425 only). Reset by pressing the ‘Y’ button and then the ‘C’ button.
• Inside handle always retracts the latch for exit.
• Stainless steel and polished brass finishes available.
• Reversible handles.
• Easy code change as often as required.
• Fit doors between 35mm (1 3⁄8”) – 60mm (2 3⁄8”) thick.
• Two coded plates are provided to allow coded access in both directions.
• Butterfly spindle not required.
• For doors hung on the right, fit the silver spindle in the front keypad and the coloured spindle in the opposite side.
• For doors hung on the left, fit the coloured spindle in the front keypad and the silver spindle in the opposite side.
• Split follower lock enables inside handle to retract latch and deadbolt simultaneously. Prevents accidental lock-ins.
• Deadbolt thrown by key to lock out code users after work hours.
• Key will retract the latchbolt giving access for admin functions.
• Double euro profile cylinder with 3 keys. Any euro profile cylinder may be used excluding thumb turn versions.
• On multiple door installations consideration should be given to having all cylinders keyed alike, with restricted key issue, for ease of management.
On models CL415 and CL425 a Code Free Access mode is available. This is signified by a black dot on the ‘Y’ button. In normal operation the code needs to be entered every time to turn the lever. To put the lock into Code Free mode first enter the code on the code card followed by the ‘Y’ code free button. The lock will now be in Code Free Access mode. To put the lock back to code access only press the passage set button once followed by the ‘C’ button.
Turn the front plate over and note that the coloured code tumblers inside correspond to the code. The code may be entered in any sequence, i.e. 1370 may be entered as 3710 or any other sequence of those numbers. There are a total of 8,191 codes available on the CL410 and CL420 locks, any of which may be entered in any order. There are 4,095 codes available on the CL415 and CL425 locks.
If you intend to change the code you should do it, if convenient, before installing the lock – see the Code Change Instructions in the separate sheet.
The model 410/415 has a tubular, deadlocking, mortice latch and may be used as a new installation on a door, or where an existing latch is to be replaced.
Step 1
Lightly mark a height line on the edge and both faces of the door, and on the door jamb, to indicate the top of the lock when fitted.
Crease the template along the ‘fold along the door edge’ dotted line that suits your latch backset, and tape it to the door.
Mark the 2 x 10mm (3⁄8") and the 4x 16mm (5⁄8") holes. Mark the centre of the door edge centre line of latch. Remove the template and apply it to the other side of the door, aligning it accurately with the first central line of latch. Mark the 6 holes again.
Step 2
Keeping the drill level and square to the door, drill a 25mm hole to accept the latch.
Step 3
Keeping the drill level and square to the door, drill the 10mm (3⁄8") and 16mm (5⁄8") holes from both sides of the door to increase accuracy and to avoid splintering out the door face. Clear a 32mm square hole from the 4 x 16mm holes.
Step 4
Put the latch into the hole and, holding it square to the door edge, draw around the faceplate. Remove the latch and score the outline with a Stanley knife to avoid splitting when chiselling. Chisel a rebate to allow the latch to fit flush to the surface.
Step 5
Fix the latch with the wood screws, with the bevel towards the door frame.
Step 6
Fitting the strike plate.
Note: The plunger beside the latchbolt deadlocks it, to protect against manipulation or ‘shimming’. The strike plate must be accurately installed so that the plunger CANNOT enter the aperture when the door is closed, even if it is slammed shut. Position the strike plate on the door frame so that it lines up with the flat of the latchbolt, and NOT the plunger.
Mark the positions of the fixing screws, and draw around the aperture of the strike plate. Chisel out the aperture 15mm deep to receive the latchbolt. Fix the strike plate to the surface of the frame using only the top fixing screw. Gently close the door and check that the latchbolt enters the aperture easily, and is held without too much ‘play’. When satisfied, draw around the outline of the strike plate, remove it and cut a rebate to enable the faceplate to lie flush with the surface. Re-fix the strike plate using both screws.
Step 7
Check that the lever handles are correctly fitted for the hand of door. To change the hand of a lever handle, loosen the grub screw with the small Allen key, reverse the lever handle and fully tighten the grub screw.
Step 8
Step 9
Fit latch support post into back of the code side front plate according to the hand of your door, A for a right hand door, or B for a left hand door (see diagram).
Step 10
Cut two of the fixing bolts to the required length for your door. Approximate overall length should be door thickness plus 20mm (13⁄16”) to allow about 10mm (3⁄8”) of threaded bolt to enter the outside plate.
Step 11
Apply the front and back plates, with the neoprene seals in position, against the door, over the protruding ends of the spindle.
Step 12
Fix the two plates together using the fixing bolts, starting with the top fixing. Ensure that the two plates are truly vertical and then tighten the bolts. Do not use excessive force.
Step 13
Before closing the door, enter the code and ensure that the latchbolt will retract when the lever handle is depressed. Now check the operation of the inside lever handle. If there is any binding of the handles or latch then loosen the bolts slightly and reposition the plates slightly until the correct position is found, and then re-tighten the bolts.
Model CL420/CL425 is a complete locking unit with all the parts necessary for a new installation, or the total replacement of an existing lock.
IMPORTANT The mortice lock provided (fig. 1) has features which are not found in most other locks and so it is recommended that you familiarise yourself with them as follows:
A. When necessary the hand of the latchbolt can be changed by removing the three screws holding the faceplate to the lock case, loosen the screw holding the latchbolt in place, reverse the latchbolt, and tighten the screw back up, ensuring that the latchbolt is central.
B. Put the key in the cylinder and insert it centrally into the lock case. Fix it in position with the long bolt through the faceplate. It should now be possible to project and retract the deadbolt with the key, and also to retract the latchbolt.
C. The square latchbolt follower is in 2 parts: the inside ‘Panic Function’ follower will retract the latchbolt and also the deadbolt when it is projected. The effect of this is to ensure that it is not possible to accidentally lock someone in a room because the deadbolt is projected. The outside follower will always retract the latchbolt whenever the lever handle is depressed after a correct code is entered, but it will not retract the deadbolt. The hand of the ‘Panic Function’ is determined as follows: the grub screws on the split follower facing the code side must be removed. This prevents the outside handle retracting the deadbolt.
NEVER remove grub screws from both sides at the same time. All door locks should be installed with a degree of precision to ensure that all components are horizontally and vertically accurate in relation to each other, and in relation to the door.
Do not install the lock where it will involve cutting into a joint between the door stile and a mid-rail.
--------------------
Step 1
Lightly mark a height line on the edge and both faces of the door, and the door jamb, to indicate the top of the lock when fitted. Mark a line down the centre of the door edge, extending above the height line and 300mm (11 13⁄16") below it.
Step 2
Hold the template against the edge of the door with the top in line with the height line, and with the arrows in line with the ‘centre of door edge’ line. Mark the positions of the fixing screws, and the holes to be drilled for the mortice.
Step 3
Apply tape to the 16mm (5⁄8”) drill bit at 90mm (3 9⁄16”) from from the tip to act as a depth guide when drilling the mortice holes. Ensure the drill is level and parallel to the door face and drill the holes as indicated on the template. Remove the remaining wood with a chisel to leave a clean mortice hole which accepts the lockcase without forcing. With the lock in the mortice make sure that the forend is parallel with the door edge and mark the outline of the forend plate. Cut the outline with a Stanley knife to avoid splitting out when chiselling. Chisel a rebate sufficient to accept the forend flush with the surface.
Step 4
Fold the template accurately along the ‘fold along the door edge’ dotted line, and tape it to the door face with the top in line with the height line, and the fold on the door edge. Mark the centres of all the holes to be drilled. Remove the template and repeat the procedure on the other face of the door.
Step 5
Drill the holes from both sides of the door to improve accuracy and to avoid splintering out the door face.
Step 6
Install the lock case in the door.
Step 7
Cut two of the fixing bolts to the required length for your door. Approximate overall length should be door thickness plus 20mm (6⁄8”) to allow about 10mm (3⁄8”) of threaded bolt to enter the outside plate.
Step 8
Step 9
Check that the lever handles are correctly fitted for the hand of door. To change the hand of a lever handle, loosen the grub screw with the small Allen key, reverse the lever handle and fully tighten the grub screw.
Step 10
Apply the front and back plates, with the neoprene seals in position, against the door, over the protruding ends of the spindle.
Step 11
Fix the two plates together using the socket head bolts, starting with the top fixing. Ensure that the two plates are truly vertical and then tighten the bolts. Do not use excessive force.
Step 12
Before closing the door, enter the code and check that the latchbolt will retract when the lever handle is depressed. Now check the operation of the inside lever handle. If there is any binding of the handles or the latch then loosen the bolts and reposition the plates slightly until the correct position is found, and then re-tighten the bolts.
Step 13
Fit the double Euro-profile cylinder and secure it with the long screw through the faceplate. Fit the cylinder escutcheons.
Step 14
Check that the deadbolt will project and retract by key, and that the key will also retract the latchbolt. Check that the inside lever handle WILL retract the deadbolt simultaneously with the latchbolt. Check that the outside lever handle WILL NOT retract the deadbolt.
Step 15
Mark a vertical line on the door jamb half the door thickness away from the door stop. This gives the centre line of the strike plate. Align the Strike Plate Template with the height line, with the arrow heads aligned with the centre line. Mark the fixing holes, and draw around the apertures for the latchbolt and the deadbolt. Chisel out the latch aperture to 12mm deep, and the deadbolt aperture to 22mm deep. Fix the strike plate with the top screw only and gently close the door. Ensure that the latchbolt enters its aperture easily and holds the door without too much ‘play’. When satisfied, draw around the final position of the strike plate, remove it, and cut a rebate to allow it to fit flush to the surface. Re-fix the strike with both screws.
II-CL400-v1:0218
© 2019 Codelocks Ltd. All rights reserved.